05 February 2026

Nine months on the Loue. 4. January - February 1963.

Exeter. 1986.

An amusing incident on my return to France was the suspicion of the French customs official who couldn't believe I was struggling back in the New Year with the most enormous cake and pudding his eyes had ever beheld as a gift for some nuns in a remote area of the Jura mountains. On examining my passport and seeing my surname was Simpson he asked if I was related to Mrs. Simpson, meaning the Duchess of Windsor. I naively assured him she was my mother which threw him into a state of total confusion! However it did divert him from his intended aim of cutting into the cake to see if I was attempting to smuggle anything inside it!

Also in my luggage I'd packed away forty shiny, newly minted,1963 1d coins straight from the bank. Every pupil received one on my return and many were still being worn as pendants around their necks when I finally left the following summer. I wonder whether anyone still has theirs today.

The only unfortunate thing about my temporary return to England for Christmas was that I was unable to experience the pleasure of spending a French Christmas with Marie-Thérèse and her family. However, I had explained my plot to them when I was initially invited so I had not disappointed them.

The delight with which my return to the school was greeted by everyone did much to make me realise the good fortune of my position and to be aware of how fast the time was passing. Mère Pierre had sent a message home with me inviting my sister to visit the school to keep me company during the Easter holidays so there was a great deal to look forward to. I settled quickly and happily back into my surroundings.

-o0o-

Champagne-sur-Loue, 14 January 1963.

I'm writing this on the plane. I've got a window seat and there are very few people on board. We're flying at 15,000ft. at 400mph. It's beautiful sunshine and we're way above any clouds. England does look strange under its blanket of snow. Everywhere is completely white and still, just like the aerial pictures we've been seeing on the television. We're just passing over Newhaven and I can see the white, snow-covered beach. It looks so different from up here. I can see a cross-channel steamer on the sea and it looks as if there'll be decent weather in France. Maybe it will be arriving in England too now that I've left.

When we were taking off there was a rabbit on the runway. He just sat there petrified while the plane approached then he suddenly turned and shot away.

I'm so tired I keep yawning. I expect you must all be feeling pretty weary too. I'm going to sleep on the train and will continue at Dijon while I wait for the connection to Mouchard.

Later.

I'm now in the snack bar at Dijon with a cup of hot coffee and half an hour to spare before I need to start bothering to find where I catch the next train. Alexandre Teddy fell out of my bag on the train and the other passengers wanted to know whether he was a present for a little niece or for somebody I was going to visit. They all edged away when I said he was mine. I've started reading Rebecca in French, but had not realised it was such a popular book here. Everyone in the carriage pounced on me when they saw it and started telling me what happened. So far I've not lost the plot but for how long?

I still say the French Metro is easier than the London one. When you can find it that is! It was originally builtuilt, I suspect, during the war so the enemy couldn't find it. Well I reckon they may well still be searching because I had the Devil's own job when I left the air terminal.

Champagne-sur-Loue.

I've arrived back safely. I took a taxi from Mouchard and forgot to post this there. If I give it to the postman when he calls tomorrow morning you should get it by the same post.

Champagne-sur-Loue, 15th January 1963.

MY BIRTHDAY!!

I'm now fully reinstated and taking the evening study period. I woke at 10:30 this morning after falling asleep at 7:00pm last night. I spent the morning going through my letters and cards in bed and got up in time for lunch!

I've finished unpacking and sorting everything out. It's much warmer here now than it was in England and when I arrived yesterday there wasn't even any snow. It fell again in the night however and today there's about an inch everywhere. The air though is quite mild and the sun's been shining. The radiators are hot at least half the time and I'm glad to say it's a lot better here now than before I came home.

I'll tell you about my presents. I'm wearing the watch Gran and Grandad gave me but can't get used to having it and keep asking people the time. The box it came in is lovely and matches that of my alarm clock so they look nice together on my little dressing table. I had a box of Goodnews chocolates from Grandad and even ate a few before they were discovered by Françoise and Danielle who relieved me of them. I received a huge supply of airmail writing paper and envelopes from Aunty José and Uncle George along with thirty shillings to buy stamps with! Schoolfriends sent me nylons, underwear and hankies and Margaret sent me a necklace and the Christmas edition of the New musical express.

I've begun to feel like a very worn and well loved wax doll lately what with all the kissing I received from everyone when I arrived last night, and today because it's my birthday, and again because of all the sweets they're now scoffing instead of working! The jumper fitted Françoise perfectly and she was absolutely delighted with it. She says it's her very favourite colour. Danielle is thrilled with her make-up and keeps popping off to take another look at it. Madame Servant's wine glasses arrived undamaged and she was really thrilled with them. Sœur Martine says she doubts if Madame will have much opportunity to use them herself as they'll be in permanent use by her husband so that he can admire the vintage cars on them. Apparently he has a mania about them. Vintage cars, I presume, not glasses.

The sisters screamed with delight at the cake and kept saying they'd never seen one so big or so pretty. They were delighted that I'd bought everyone a present and kept coming up and hugging me. This can be a bit unnerving if the attack happens to come from behind!

I was thrilled as all the girls had clubbed together and given me a box of six hankies in bright cheerful colours. I really mean cheerful too! They were in shocking pink edged with brown, lime green edged with orange, and turquoise blue edged with mauve. They rather dazzled one in the box but the girls thought they were heavenly and naturally I was overjoyed at their kindness.

Then when we went downstairs to eat at 4:15 the kitchen had all been laid for a party tea. Françoise, Danielle, Madame Servant and I all had a little party on our own and finished up the sandwiches you made for me out of the paper on the middle of the beautifully laid table. It rather spoilt the look of things but they wanted to see the English newspaper.

Danielle gave me a little present and a nice note about spending the declining years of my life in solitary retirement now I'd reached the advanced old age of eighteen. Shall I tell you what the present was? It's an E.P. record of Elvis Presley singing "Good Luck Charm" and "She's Not You" as well as two others I've not heard yet. It's the same as an English disc except that it's got a big hole in the middle instead of a little one. It'll still play on our player when I come home because we've got a thingummy-whatsit to put in the middle haven't we? Don't you think it was nice of her? I was so delighted. The pupils are thrilled I brought my discs back with me. I don't think there'll be much work done here if they get their hands on them!

The nuns nearly didn't get their cake because the French Customs officer wanted to know what I'd got in the enormous parcel. He was quite a fruity chap as Customs officials go. When told it was a cake he scratched his head, weighed it in his hands, nearly dropping it and finally asked me to open it there and then and give him a slice. I assured him it would give him very bad indigestion and he wanted to know whether I intended eating it all myself and if so was I sure I wasn't smuggling in any whisky to drink with it.

On the train from Dijon a couple of farm workers got into my carriage and wanted to know all about England. They kept mumbling to me in colloquial French which I couldn't understand. When we arrived at Mouchard one of them carried my case while the other went and found me a taxi. They saw me safely in before departing. They were so nice and helpful but because of the rush I didn't have an opportunity to post your letter letting you know I was safely back. Françoise gave it to the postman for me this morning so I hope you've not been worrying.

Françoise has asked me to go to her home to stay with her family during half-term next month and I want to go a lot. The only problem is that Marie-Noëlle wants me to go to Lyon again and Marie-Thérèse has asked me to her home as I didn't go at Christmas. I expect it will sort itself out.

I received a lovely card from Monique Le Gal, the nurse from Brittany. It had stamps printed all over the cover for all the places of the World. Under each stamp was written "Happy Christmas and New Year" in the language of the country to which the stamp belonged.

Champagne-sur-Loue, 16th January 1963.

The uncle of Françoise kicked the bucket this morning and she's been moping around all morning feeling really miserable. She's going home tomorrow and coming back on Sunday.

Sœur Martine has gone to a convent in Switzerland near Mont Blanc to visit Mère Pierre who's staying there. She was accompanied by a large hunk of Gran's Christmas cake both for emergency rations on the journey and for Mère Pierre on arrival. She says she'll write to her friend in Paris soon to ask her which day she could meet Julie and put her onto the train to Dijon. They break-up here on 30th March so Julie can arrive some time between then and 11th April. Danielle has invited me to stay with her until Julie's arrival as she probably won't be free to come for at least a week after term ends, will she? Monique is also coming to stay here over Easter but I don't yet know the date of her arrival either. Julie will get on well with her because as you know she can speak some English.

Danielle's parents have got three houses. One in Besançon, one in Dôle and one in a tiny mountain village not far from here. She says if I do stay with her we'll spend a couple of days in the mountain cottage and the rest of the time in Besançon because I'll be able to speak a lot of English there. She says there'll be lots of Easter visitors in the town as well as all the English and American students at the University.

Would you believe I actually spent two hours this morning really working at my biology! Now I must try and think of something to teach the girls in their English lesson tomorrow.

17 January.

At the moment Françoise is waiting for the taxi to arrive to take her to the station for her uncle's funeral. It's so late coming that the train left five minutes ago so she'll have to take a later one. She's naturally feeling really miserable and it makes life so dull for me as nobody else here is such an idiot. Still I can hardly blame her.

Danielle has been going around crying "I love you baby because you're my good luck charm" at me all day. She's got herself a notebook to write down all the words she learns. Every mealtime she ends up with a huge pile of bread beside her plate as she keeps asking me for "A piece of bread please darling." She'd like to come to England in the summer, as would Françoise, but neither think they can afford it. They say they must try and have a win on the French National Lottery and have been busy doing mathematical equations to see if they can even afford to buy a ticket for it! She's just trotted off saying "Do you speak English? Yes very well. Madame Servant is ill because she has just lost her head, Swinging!" I'd not realised what a complete load of rubbish I've been teaching them! Isn't it funny how they always manage to pick up the wrong bits?

Sœur Jeanne-Cathérine has started to remember her English and she knows far more than she made out. She keeps telling me things she recalls and is making much faster progress now because I take more interest and teach her dozens of new words. She has invited me to go to the French lesson tomorrow that she gives to the first year as she thinks it will help me and is giving me a preview of the lesson this afternoon to make it easier for me to follow. They're doing Phèdre by Racine.

Would you please send on my iron necklace which like a twit I left on the dressing table? I can't wear my beatnik outfit without it as I feel all undressed and naked, if you twig me.

I found a card waiting for me from Pam on my return, "Jill you horrible steaming nit, What do you think you're doing? Write Man! Make like with the pen, Pronto! Lots of love, Pam." What a cheek! She only ever writes once in a blue moon and anyway I was in England at the time. No wonder she looked guilty when I let her sit in the warmest fireside chair the other week because she was cold. She must have felt awful with a letter like that on her conscience waiting to be discovered on my return to France!

Champagne-sur-Loue, 20th January 1963.

Sunday.

This afternoon I've got to take these poor kids out for a walk somewhere for three hours. Don't you think it's wicked? The kids don't want to go at all and I want to take them even less. Out there in all that ice and wind just for the sheer awfulness of it! If you don't hear from me for a couple of months you'll know I got caught in a snowdrift and am waiting for the thaw. Actually it's not so very bad. There's brilliant sunshine and it really hurts the eyes, the reflection on the snow is so bright. It may not even be as bad as you've got it but none the less I don't fancy going out for a long walk for the sake of it.

The other evening, Nelly, one of the pupils, came along to my room and presented me with a carefully wrapped-up bar of Nestlé milk chocolate which she said was a little present from her but she was very sorry it had got broken in her case. Honestly she's a little devil in lessons and I'm always nagging her. I hated taking it because she's never got any money, never goes home for the weekends to see her family and goes about in this freezing weather without stockings on because she can't afford to buy any. Nelly's a stubborn little thing so I didn't bother to argue. I accepted the gift with delight and Nelly went off very happy. I don't suppose there's any way I can repay her. I can't give her anything without having to give everyone else something too, but for Nelly to give me that would be like me giving someone a pound, and believe me that's a lot of money!

The cat that lives here has just made herself comfortable on the middle of this sheet of paper, just where I want to write! She's now transferred herself to my lap where she's purring and dribbling all over me and clawing at my jumper. You wouldn't like her though, Mum, as she's completely white. She keeps chewing the end of my pen and leaving wet smudges over this letter. She's really getting on my nerves now, crawling all round my neck. If she doesn't stop it soon I'll have to throw her out but it's so cold I haven't the heart. Not that it's much warmer in here!

The other day Mme Servant's husband came and did some repairs around the school. He's refitted my basin back onto the wall so I can wash again without fear of the whole thing collapsing down onto my toes. Unfortunately the water's now cold in the mornings as well as the evenings and to wash my hair I have to spend a couple of hours boiling up a huge cauldron of water in the kitchen and if I want a bath I have to have a cold one. As I've no intention whatsoever of doing that I should be arriving home looking several shades darker than when you last saw me! I'm just having to become a beatnik! I don't know how the nuns manage. The girls can all bath when they go home at the weekends.

Could you please have a thorough search at home and see if you can find my amber necklace? Unfortunately I think it's been taken by one of the pupils. I'm almost certain I left it here when I came home for Christmas but I've searched high and low for it. I'm really upset because, apart from it being a family heirloom, a jeweller once told me it was genuine and quite valuable. I suspect it must have been taken by the same girl who took my lipstick as she's always been whining for me to give it to her. I can't prove it however, nor can I ask her. I do think it's mean though. I know she liked it a lot but I tried to explain to her why I couldn't give it to her and that apart from anything else, it had a lot of sentimental value to me.

I received the cake recipe from Gran yesterday. All I need to do now is translate it into French for Françoise and she'll be able to celebrate Christmas à la mode d'Angleterre for ever!

I've found a copy of Jane Eyre here in French. As I've already read it at least five times for O-level English and can remember pages of it off by heart I thought I'd have a bash at reading it. So far I've got through a couple of chapters and it's not really very difficult at all. I've learned several new words and it's a very close translation which makes it much easier to follow. Rebecca is also really good and I'm now about half-way through that.

Champagne-sur-Loue, 21 January 1963.

Would you believe, yet another insult from Pam! This morning I received a belated birthday card. The envelope was decorated with such slogans as "Ban the Bomb and Elvis Presley. Up with beatniks and Anthony Newley." The card itself was of a cool cat in dark glasses wading methodically through the Oxford English Dictionary with the doctored caption "Dictionaries just don't have words bad enough to describe you, but then the compilers never knew you like I do." The second foul thing in a week! Furthermore she'd added a note. "Mobilise the pen you underbrained, oversized, steaming nit and let me know of all the daft, idiotic things you've been up to. Lots of love, Pam." She's hardly bursting at the seams with the milk of human kindness. (Is that mixing metaphors, by the way?)

This afternoon we took the sledge out for the second time. This time, instead of just falling off and rolling in the snow, I went right through a fence and sent it flying! Fortunately it came off worse than I did but I'm feeling rather bruised after the exploits of the last two days. Heaven knows what state I'll be in by tomorrow. It's great fun and helps wonderfully to keep one warm though I have been seen in more dignified attitudes, but I can't instantly recall when!

Danielle has asked me to give her English lessons every morning from eleven till twelve as we've both got a free period then and she's hopeful about coming to England in the summer. Her mum thinks it's a "whizzing" idea (I sound like the head of a girl's hockey team don't I?) but is already starting to have fits about the thought of Danielle on a plane, as is Danielle. I don't know if Françoise will come or not. She's so miserable lately she doesn't seem able to think of anything. She returned yesterday, depressed as could be but fortunately seems to have cheered up a lot today.

What's this I hear about Gaitskell dying last night? I've not heard the news but Madame Servant said an English politician died last night so I assume it's Gaitskell.

22nd January.

Today I managed not to fall off the sledge or to knock anyone down. I'm certainly improving.

Do you know what Scotsmen wear under their kilts? Neither do I really but a friend once told me that her Scottish cousin wore his long coms under his. Mind you, I suspect she was a Pepsi over the eight at the time so it may be unreliable. This letter however has little to do with long coms or Scotsmen's kilts but is more concerned with what nuns wear under their robes.
Are we sitting comfortably and not blushing? Sœur Martine stood in the centre of the kitchen and lifted up her robes! I thought she'd gone mad and tried to gaze absent-mindedly at a fly on the wall. Then she told me to have a look! There for all the world to see was what nuns wear under their robes!! It is my solemn aim in writing these letters to be completely honest so I will disclose to you the awesome truth. Beneath the robes of French nuns can be found...Trousers!! But I whisper it, don't tell anyone else!

Actually Sœur Martine says it's so darned cold here that lots of the nuns wear trousers or ski pants for extra warmth. It's the first time I ever beheld a nun in grey pinstripe drainpipes. Danielle, Françoise and I spent the rest of the day hanging around the bottom of the stairs to see if the nuns coming down had trousers on but we were very disappointed. Not one trouser leg to be seen! Still we did see the ankles of several legs encased in long underwear which did compensate a little.

To change the subject, which is causing me a great deal of embarrassment, I've spent the last few days putting girls to bed with toothache and other ailments. I ram [...] aspirins down their throats with a warm drink. [...] Then I tuck them up with a hot water bottle and tell them a bedtime story. Finally I play them my Elvis Presley records until they fall asleep.

You recall I'm going to the first year’s French course with them? Well on Friday it was clause analysis which is hard enough in English! Today we read a play by Molière, from the time of Louis XIV some three hundred years ago, so you can imagine how difficult it was for me to understand. However I was able to make enough sense of it to follow the lesson reasonably happily.

Champagne-sur-Loue, Monday, 28 January 1963.

I've not got to take a study period tonight so I'm in the kitchen with Françoise and have been helping her to peel, cut and core over one hundred pears. Guess who'll be dreaming about them tonight?

I think I must have a chill from the cold weather because I came over feeling very sick at lunchtime and had to stagger up to bed leaving Françoise to explain to the nuns that although I was unwell I'd be feeling better later. I was nearly sick several times but eventually fell asleep and felt a good deal better when I woke up. I got up and then received a lecture from one of the nuns who said I should have told her and she'd have given me some medicine. What use is medicine for a chill? I ask you! I know she was only trying to be kind but she's put me right off ever asking her if I should feel ill again. Actually I'm beginning to feel bad again now so think I'll try and go to bed about eight o'clock as by then I'll probably be feeling dreadful. I suspect it was caused by having to take the girls for a long walk in a terrific icy wind yesterday despite my having on two jumpers, my big coat, two pairs of gloves and a scarf. However I was wearing a thin skirt and stockings instead of tights so I'm pretty sure I must have caught a chill. A couple of people have commented that I look a bit white.

I do wish I didn't have to get up at seven each morning to take the study period until eight as I've never got anything to do for the next two hours and I'm sure the sleep would do me a lot of good as I'm feeling so poorly. Still maybe I'll be feeling better by tomorrow. Haven't I been miserable in my last couple of letters? Sorry but I can't be jolly all the time, especially when I'm feeling so rotten.

Danielle's mum changed the £2.10 shillings for me and I got 33.97 francs for it. She also got me a film for the camera.

Tuesday.

I'm feeling much more like myself today, which isn't really surprising because I could hardly feel more like anyone else, though Henri seems to manage to be Lawrence of Arabia pretty well!

I felt quite rough when I finished writing last night and seeing a bottle of wine on the table I helped myself. It wasn't very strong but then wine's not like brandy. It helped warm my stomach up and made me not feel sick any more. As it happened the bottle belonged to the odd job man. He's the deaf, stuttering, doddery ninety year old Mayor of the village that I don’t get on with very well. That's only because it takes us a good two hours to say good morning what with me not understanding his stuttered mumbles and him being deaf and not hearing me. Fortunately I found myself unable to understand him again last night when he discovered his wine bottle was half empty!

England's drunkards have got themselves a reputation here. The girls asked me whether it was true that when the weather was cold and a man couldn't afford a fire at home he'd go out and commit a crime or get really drunk so as to be locked up in a nice warm prison for a few days. Someone is said to have done just that recently and been given a three month jail sentence which suited him nicely. Everyone here finds the idea very funny.

We all went out onto the Clos at lunch time and kept ourselves warm discovering how many different sorts of tracks we could make in the snow. Childish but it diverted the girls so much they even forgot to play with the sledge. Then a couple of the girls pulled me down the hillside at a run until the inevitable disaster where my legs went one way and the rest of me went the other! The girls informed me I ended up at right angles, flat on my back with my legs in the air! They've counted that I've fallen over eight times during the past week which is roughly seven times more than everybody else. Fortunately the snow is nice and soft. They're all keeping their cameras at the ready now, waiting for my next disaster. They say they wish Julie was here now as she could really have a laugh at me.

It's Sœur Martine's feast day tomorrow and I tried to get her a card but the village shop was out of them. Such a pity but can't be helped. Henri, please will you write to her and the sisters as they'd be so delighted. If you could just mention that you hope Sœur Martine had a bonne fête on 30th January she'd be really thrilled.

I went to the French lesson this afternoon and we finally finished wading through that Racine play I mentioned to you. I reckon I must have understood about one percent of it! Although I found it really difficult I did understand the general outline and I was told it was even difficult for the girls so I was quite pleased with myself really.

One of the girls who inhabits my room has gone to bed ill. The nuns have even gone and swiped my warm eiderdown to tuck over her, so I'll have to freeze tonight. Bother!

Danielle's not well today and I've been rushing around looking after her. She's taken some tablets for flue and they've upset her stomach. I made her drink some very weak tea with lots of sugar and she's feeling a little better now. We've just been listening to "Salut le Copains" together. It's an international programme of pop records from Britain, America, France, Spain and Italy.

Champagne-sur-Loue, Wednesday, 30 January 1963.

Yesterday I did three hours biology and learned the digestive system completely. Considering that involves about fifty Latin names for enzymes and learning what they do, that's a lot of hard work. Remembering it all is going to be even harder! For example, did you know that saliva contains an enzyme, ptyalin, which in turn contains diastase which changes starches to maltose? What an ignorant lot you are! That's one of the easier bits. How about the three enzymes of the pancreas, which is held in the duodenum or first part of the small intestine. The enzymes are called 1, Amylase, 2, Trypsinogen and 3, Lipase. Their functions are to change, 1. starches to sugars, 2. proteins to peptones, 3. emulsified fats to soluble glycerine and insoluble fatty acids. I could continue for hours but I think that's quite enough for you for one day!

I've ventured on using your camera Henri but am not quite sure how I put the film in and how many photos I can take per reel. I hope I don't waste the first film. I took some pictures of all the girls together with the sledge but we were all laughing so much I only hope I managed to hold the camera still. I've also taken some views of the village and of some ice blocks going over a waterfall on the Loue. I can't afford to have the film developed so will send it home and you can send back the negatives of any good ones for the nuns and girls to have copies made for themselves.

Some photos taken at the time with captions added by Jill later.

The girls at lunchtime “torture” in the Clos

Again at torture

On the sledge: Michelle and Evelyne, 
in the background, left to right: Gabrielle, Andrée, Jacqueline, Janine

Madeleine, Chantal, Madeleine, just after Chantal fell off the sledge

Gabrielle, Madeleine and Jacqueline moving a stone
to prevent an accident with the toboggan


The River Loue with the melting ice and mountain snow. 
In colour this would be good because the Loue was a vivid green

I happened to go into the staffroom for my dictionary and found it in total darkness with a weird, high pitched cackling sound coming from the corner. There was Sœur Martine bending over a projector she'd been given as a present today, like a witch over a cauldron, projecting wasps' heads onto the wall opposite. I ask you! It was given her to project slides with and all she can do is jump about with excitement and tell me that this way she can make a half inch wasp's head project onto the wall as a three foot, six inch head! She was delighted with her discovery and soon had caterpillars and butterflies there as well.

She really is the nuttiest person I know. Guess what she's done now? She found a tin of prawns and has just this minute come into the middle of the study period I'm taking, holding a large pink prawn by the leg and presented it to me, very solemnly, in front of all the pupils! She's now trotted off to decorate the staffroom walls with images of very long, hairy prawns' legs. Honestly if she keeps this up it'll be a mixture of Bluebeard's Chamber and the Chamber of Horrors in there!

It's now feeding time yet again! I must rake up my courage and enter the staffroom. I wouldn't be surprised to find even a large goldfish or elephant projected onto the wall.

Thursday.

Once again I'm taking the evening study period. I spent the whole afternoon out by myself on the Clos with the sledge and then went for a walk. The sun was so warm I used the sledge as a seat and sat reading Jane Eyre for half an hour.

I was careering down the hill on the sledge with it out of control as usual but this time it didn't stop as it usually does at the bottom but carried wildly on towards a huge ditch full of icy water. I couldn't stop it although I was dragging the ground with my heels. Deciding I'd sooner fall off than take an icy bath I simply stood up. I was rather surprised to find myself on my feet and stood watching the sledge continue on its way jumping clean over the ditch! […]    

During today's English lesson the girls all wrote sentences again and I was rushed off my feet and mind trying to help them all at once with my elementary French.    Les Fourgs, the village where Françoise lives, is in the newspaper because it was completely cut off and isolated by snow for a couple of days. There are several aerial pictures too. It may interest you to know that it will be in this village that I will be spending three days in a fortnight's time and more snow is expected. It may well be every bit as bad as now! Wow! Do you envy me?   

The postman's threatened to go on strike! Says he doesn't get paid enough and may not come tomorrow! If my letters are a bit irregular you'll know why. You can't really blame the poor chap, can you? What with having to cart all the heaps of letters from England out here, having to carry all my heavy letters back to Mouchard and work out the stamps for me, make me out a bill and worry about the excess postage I owe the French Post Office, not to mention being cursed by me when there are no letters for me when he arrives, it must be a terrible job his, mustn't it?    

I went to a French grammar lesson today and came away a lot better for it. I'm beginning to understand the tenses of verbs a lot better but still get very muddled over the difference between the passé simple and the passé composé. Can you enlighten me Henri?    

Sunday, 3 February 1963.

I've just finished ironing my unmentionables with the usual audience of horrified nuns, and given them a demonstration on how to do the Charleston. I am now thinking how to cut out the pattern for a blouse I want to make.

This afternoon we went on a freezing walk to Arc-et-Senans. Now the girls are all making pancakes and as they're calling to me to go and help them I suppose I'd better go. Is it Shrove Tuesday already on Tuesday then! Françoise has asked me to tell you she's mad. The request rather proves it, though Heaven knows why she should want it broadcast. It is completely true however.

Champagne-sur-Loue, Monday, 4 February 1963.

I leave with Françoise for Les Fourgs, near Pontarlier, four miles from the Swiss border on 13th February. Everyone here thinks I must be mad as it will be so cold but here's hoping. Françoise is getting over her misery and is becoming a little madder each day. Yesterday for example she told me that the girl who used to do the cooking here turned her back for a moment and the school cat fell into the cauldron of soup she was cooking. I pictured a terrific splash, followed by silence and then a frenzied yowl as the cat emerged with a lump of onion on his nose and a carrot in his ear. She subdued me however by telling me the soup was scalding hot. She said that nobody ate the soup afterwards but that if it had happened to her she'd have pulled the cat out and not mentioned it until after the meal. This place really reeks of hygiene! I said, knowing Françoise she'd probably put the lid on and cook the cat, put the whole thing through a mincer and serve it up as "Potage au chat", or to disguise it, "Mog Stew". We then got around to discussing unusual dishes and what we could have for dinner today that was a little different. It was eventually decided by Françoise that todays menu would consist of "Tête à l'Anglaise avec des legumes". In other words, my head on a plate surrounded by vegetables and with a tomato in my mouth!

This morning when I went into the kitchen she'd rigged up a guillotine with a kitchen stool, a chopping board, a bread basket and a chopper which she stood holding, with a cauldron of boiling water nearby! On the table was a selection of very dangerous looking knives! One look was enough to decide me that it was not the place for a prospective victim to waste time commenting on the weather and I beat a hasty retreat with Françoise in hot pursuit still waving the chopper and uttering blood curdling cries suited to her rôle of Chief Executioner. The pupils have sadly informed me that we'll all have to make do with cat stew instead for supper now!

Last night one of the nuns informed me that some of the girls have been caught going to bed with absolutely all their clothes on except their shoes. When the nun went round turning the lights out she didn't realise because they'd all put their long sleeved nighties on over the top! That way it was warmer to get up in the morning, saved time dressing and allowed then a few extra minutes in bed! I thought it very funny but she didn't. She said she'd watched the general waste flow from all the washbasins of a morning and hardly any water came down so that proved they didn't wash either! I can't say I blame them but I suppose it is a bit mucky really. Look who's talking! I'm trying to rake up courage for a bath at 8:00am. This cold weather it's a horror to have to move anywhere. To have to wash and dress at 7:00am, take the morning study and then undress for a cold bath at 8:00am in a bathroom with real frosted glass (it's ordinary glass in summer), without even a radiator and only a stone floor to put your feet on, is not the most pleasant way of welcoming the day! There was, in fact still is, a Frenchman of eighty five who's never known a day's illness in his life. It's all attributed to his having a daily bathe in the river Loire. Unfortunately, the last week or two his exercise has been curtailed for the first time ever. The Loire has been frozen over so thickly that it's been impossible to break through for him. Here you can now walk right across the Loue if you so wish. The pupils assure me it will hold but by dint of swearing and cursing I've managed to keep them off of it so far.

I've found an excellent way to maintain complete silence during study periods. I don't need to threaten to report them, a threat I've never yet needed to enforce as they're not bad kids really. There are one or two however who don't seem able to keep quiet so now I say "Right, the next girl to give her vocal chords an airing does half-an-hour's solid learning of English verbs". I've also found it necessary to give them all a little lecture entitled "Getting to the morning study on time". Some of them are turning up twenty minutes late. The main disadvantage with the lecture of course is that it means I have to set the example.


It's now breakfast time and my fingers are quite dead with the cold so I'm off to try and warm up.

Later.

The bath water was stone cold so I just issued every girl with a clothes peg and remained dirty. Really I'm not that bad. I usually submerge in a bath of iced Champagne at least three times a week since I learned about the transpiration rate in biology.

I'm looking forward so much to you coming over Julie. I've thought of dozens of things we can do. One is for you to attend my English lessons armed with a notebook and see if you can work the lesson backwards and learn some French. Do you still want to come? The weather is improving daily and it's very sunny although it's so cold. The days seem to be getting longer too. It's no longer pitch black at 7:30am and it's reasonably light until about 6:00pm. By Easter it may well be warm and lovely. The buds are beginning to appear on the trees and everywhere is starting to look more spring-like.

I'm looking forward to the arrival of the Shakespeare volumes, Henri, but do I need to bring them home? If there's another English girl here next year she might find them useful and it would be less for me to lug back when I come.

I asked one of the nuns yesterday if she would excuse me from taking the girls out as I wasn't feeling too good, having caught a cold. As they were only playing ball I couldn't see that they could manage to get into much trouble. She said she'd prefer me to go if at all possible because if nobody was with them and one of them had an accident the nuns would be responsible. Does that mean that if they have an accident then I'm responsible? Anyway, out of 29 of us the only one to have an accident was yours truly who skidded and sat down with a jolt on some very wet and very hard ice! Not only is it now painful to sit down but I think I've damaged my patella, as my knee hurts when I bend it.

Champagne-sur-Loue, Saturday, 9 February 1963.

Chapter One. (With apologies to Charlotte Brontë).

"It was too cold to take a walk that day." - actually this has little to do with what I will relate but seems a very appropriate way to commence a letter at this time of year.

This morning Danielle left here for Besançon but as she couldn't get a taxi she had to walk to Liesle carrying her case. As I hadn't seen the elderly couple I know there for some time, I decided to accompany Danielle as far as the station and then continue on to visit them. We left here in a mountain mist at 8:00am. and arrived in Liesle just before 9:00am, so you see it's really quite a long walk. I was looking particularly elegant because, apart from having skidded and sat down heavily and unexpectedly more than once on patches of ice, the mist had become entangled in my backcombing and with the intense cold had frozen there giving me a grey, wizened, and intelligent air. It just goes to show how deceptive hair colouring can be!

Chapter Two.

I left Danielle at the station and continued my weary way to the cottage. Knocking, I walked in. They were all gorging the remains of breakfast and with delighted enthusiasm they invited me to join them. As I'd had no breakfast and was feeling on the damp, cold side, (rather like a dog's nose) I needed no second bidding. I said I was in a hurry and couldn't stop long as I had to get back to school to take a morning study. I warned then of the imminent invasion upon Champagne by my economy-sized sister and warned them to barricade their doors. Strangely though, they seemed delighted at the idea and have made me promise to take Julie to visit them.

Just as I got up to go, the woman started telling me about her son that she's so proud of and I couldn't leave while she was talking. She told me he'd been demobbed and was home now to stay. Her husband kept disappearing into the other room and eventually who should come through but this poor lad who's so much the centre of all his mother's affections. Whenever I go she shows me piles of photos of him so I was surprised to find he looked a lot older than I'd expected though he's only twenty two. I'm not sure whether his mum wants to get the poor chap off with me or whether she's just terribly proud of him, but she'd dragged the poor fellow out of bed at the awful hour of 9:00am. on a cold wet Saturday just to say hello to me. He arrived rubbing his eyes and surrounded by the mists of sleep and last night's beard. He looked so pathetic I was trying really hard to look serious while we were introduced. His name's Claude and having solemnly shaken hands and "bonjoured" each other we stood trying very hard to think of something to say. As in France they don't use the weather as a topic of conversation and I couldn't think of anything else, we lapsed into silence and stood giving each other glares of annoyance while Mum continued to tell me how marvellous he was. We were neither of us looking particularly breathtaking. My grey hair was fast melting, trickling down my forehead and running off the end of my right eyebrow. My backcombing had gone completely flat, and my boots, which have now more or less disintegrated and are only worn for warmth, were held together with mud and ice after my morning walk. For him, sleep rather than courtesy was the predominant thought in his mind as he stood there unshaven, wearing old blue jeans and a sloppy jumper.

When I left I said I'd try to go and see them again on Sunday week but couldn't be sure if I'd be able to manage it. Mum said she hoped I could and she knew her son would be able to keep that day free. Hoh hoh! Mum's at it I reckon. What do you think? I bet the son had something to say to her when I'd gone! Poor old Mum's really going to be for it.

As for me, I walked back to Champagne giggling. I simply had to let loose all the pent-up laughter and everyone I passed just smiled understandingly and muttered to their companions "It's quite alright. She's completely harmless. She's the young English girl imported into Champagne. They wanted to go one better than the rest of us and have a foreign village idiot."

Sunday.

Before Christmas the nuns gave me ten and a half weeks pocket money even though I'd only been here nine weeks. They insisted I might need some extra money to travel home for Christmas and said I could pay it back from earnings when I returned. Today Sœur Martine paid me my pocket money to the end of January. I said I owed them some money but she insisted it didn't matter and I was to keep it. When I opened the envelope she'd paid me two and a half weeks money even though I was only owed two. Wasn't it jolly decent of her?

I'm feeling really exhausted and am having difficulty keeping my eyes open without the aid of matchsticks. I've just returned from a twelve kilometre (about eight miles) walk in the pouring rain with boots that have recently started to rub me. After Liesle yesterday and that today, I'm really tired. I'll certainly sleep well tonight. The walk was nice because it wasn't very cold, but everywhere was flooded by the sudden thaw and all the snow has miraculously disappeared.

Don't worry if I don't write for a few days. It may not be possible from Fançoise's home. We're both excitedly looking forward to Wednesday already. She tells me her home is about 3,000ft above sea level so you see that's pretty high!

Sœur Martine came into the kitchen the other day and started to teach us yoga exercises which she made us promise to do every night for five minutes. We agreed, thinking it an amusing giggle, and so far we're both stiff in all our joints and you can hardly see Françoise for bandages around her knees where she creaked a bit too much. That's probably an added reason why I feel so weary today.

I'm taking a study at the moment. 6:30 on a Sunday evening and the kids are working! Just because I'm tired it's typical that I should be asked to look after the girls until 9:30 tonight and make sure they are all in bed with their lights out by 9:45. That means two hours less sleep than I'd been hoping for. However, as the French say, "Tant pis".

Danielle helped me to cut out the pattern for a blouse I'm making. I didn't have enough material to do it properly but she knew a different way of laying out the pieces to make it fit. It took one and a half hours to do it because I had to translate all the directions into French for her!

Sœur Martine has got herself a black anorak and she told me that when she goes ski-ing she pulls her robes up inside the anorak and has her black stripe drainpipes underneath. She pulls the hood tight around her face to keep out the wind. She even demonstrated and honestly, to look at her, the last thing you'd expect would be that she was a nun! She really is the strangest person I've ever met. She was telling me that when she was in Italy there was an oldish woman with masses of make-up and wearing stiletto heels wriggling along on the other side of the pavement. (This was accompanied by a demonstration.) An Italian man in front of Sœur Martine whistled and said something expressive in Italian, remarking loudly to the woman how beautiful she was. She wriggled on her way giggling and the chap turned to Sœur Martine and said "Sorry Sister but that's the biggest lie I've told for a long time."

Les Fourgs, Pontarlier, Jura, Friday, 15 February 1963.

At Champagne there wasn't a sign of snow until just before we left for here when it started to fall. At Les Fourgs it was falling heavily when we arrived and honestly, against the roadside it was easily twice as high as us! Yesterday it finally stopped and we were able to venture out for a walk. Françoise suggested we trotted into Switzerland but guess which stupid idiot had left her passport at Champagne? I was really mad but we decided to walk as far as the barrier anyway to at least have a look into Switzerland. On arriving there an official armed with a revolver approached us and demanded to see our passports. Françoise later told me he wasn't a customs officer at all but someone from a special division of the police. Apparently somebody recently passed through at this barrier smuggling hundreds of pounds worth of jewels! Also, it seems there are a lot of people from Algeria trying to get into France and they are not welcome here.

Françoise told the officer that she had a passport but her friend had left hers at school. She omitted to mention that I was English and I then received a long lecture in rapid French about being so careless and that I ought to know better. Apparently in France nobody goes around the country without their identification papers. He asked where we were going and we explained we were out for a walk. He said we could go as far as the Swiss barrier, a further two kilometres on, provided I gave him my name and address. We entered the cosy little office and I decided at this stage I'd better inform him that I was English. This caused further complications but softened his attitude greatly. He assured me he could speak English well having learned it at school when he was young. He was only about twenty three anyway! He decided we could still pass and took details of my name, date of birth, English and French addresses, and a record of how long I intended remaining in France. He was really meticulous, while the person who actually was the customs officer went off to sleep in a chair by the fire! He wished us a pleasant walk, reminded us only to go as far as the border and to make sure we returned. By this time everything was on a very friendly footing and it had all become rather a joke. After we left it occurred to us that he'd been so busy taking my details he'd completely forgotten about looking at Françoise's papers or to ask if we'd anything to declare.

We eventually reached the Swiss frontier and were again approached by an armed officer. Having been successful once we decided we'd try it again and I cheerfully told him we were out for a walk, that I was English and that I'd forgotten my passport but we only wanted to take a little stroll into Switzerland as far as Germany, did he mind? I gave him my sweetest smile and he, deciding I was a lunatic, said Okay, but did I have anything to declare? I assured him I had only [… two] francs, a threepenny bit, a bag of swag and a pair of dirty socks. He said he'd not bother to charge me for them and not to go too far.

In fact, he actually gave us permission to go as far as the first sweet shop so that I could claim to have been into Switzerland. I must have been at least two hundred yards into the country but maybe I'll go again one day. I doubt they'd let me in without my passport next time though! I bought a couple of Mars bars, the wrappers beautifully inscribed in French with "Made in Slough, England" inscribed on the bottom of them!

I was profoundly amazed to discover that Switzerland looked just like France, or at least this part of France. I could see three huge mountains, completely white with sheer drops and spikes of jagged rock showing through. There were the usual sapins to be seen and the sun was so strong my eyes were very painful and watery.

On our return through the French barrier the chap wanted to know about the part of England I came from as he had a friend who lived in Brighton. We chatted for nearly half an hour, him in English and me in French, so neither of us understood much of what the other was saying.

Today the sun is nowhere near so good and I'm trying to finish this letter before Françoise takes me out for a ski-ing lesson this afternoon. I want to leave you something to remember me by when they discover my remains during the thaw!

I've been watching the skiers from the bedroom window this morning where I can see a dangerous looking ski-jump. They rush downhill very fast, shoot off the end of the slide, fly about twenty foot down onto the snow and disappear at terrific speed. Whoosh! Really exciting!

I've been teaching Françoise's eleven year old sister lots of English words which she goes around chanting all day. Her fourteen year old sister Marcelle learns English at school and I've just finished doing her homework for her.

Can you visualise a house where it's necessary to walk through the cowshed with a torch of an evening to use the toilet because there's no electricity? I have to pass through this shed too, and climb up a ladder to reach the bedroom which I share with Françoise. Once there the room is lovely. Low windows, wooden boards and no carpets. In the corner stands a spinning wheel and there's a wooden crucifix on the wall. From below the cattle, inside the barn for the winter months, can be both heard and smelt. All night long the mice run about beneath us in the barn and above us in the attic making a deal of noise with their jumping and scratching.

The kitchen has a pump in it for the water and the oven must be as old as Noah's Ark. It serves for both heating and cooking. Water is heated in a tank at the side of the oven and comes out through a tap beneath. Every now and then a cow will poke its head in through the upper part of the kitchen door from the barn attached. It's not possible to see out through the downstairs windows because the snow is so deep it's completely covered them all up!

I could go on for hours but Françoise is waving a ski stick in my direction and making weird signals so will continue when I get back to Champagne.

Champagne-sur-Loue, Monday 18 February 1963.

We had to get up at 5:00am. this morning to get back here in time for Françoise to prepare the lunch and for me to take this study. With the aid of a pile of books I'm now propped up in a relatively awakened condition.

As you know, Françoise took me ski-ing the other day. My first action was to fall over. Having done this perhaps twenty times I began to get the hang of it all. Françoise then made me go down a fairly steep slope and showed me how. She is something of an expert and has won many ski-ing awards locally. It all looked so easy and graceful. Don't be deceived, just wait until you try it! I set off and one ski went in one direction and the other took an opposite course. Again I fell over but this time I was unable to get up as every time I got one ski the right way up it slipped on the ice and down I fell again! Eventually I was helped back onto my feet and off I set at what seemed a terrific speed. "This is great, really great" I thought. Then I decided that if I intended stopping before I crashed through the Swiss barrier I'd better do something about it in the only way I knew. Again I fell over!

Later we arrived back at Françoise's home and, freed at last from the skis, I fell down yet again as my legs felt peculiar without them. I've been invited to visit the family once again before the thaw to have another try but doubt I'll have the opportunity.

Françoise has a smashing brother of twenty four called Louis. He's really good looking and very nice natured. Trouble is, he's training to be a priest! I think he'll make a good one though as he's got the right temperament. It seems odd to imagine though, having watched him milking in the cowshed wearing sloppy jumper and jeans and seen him carrying around a freshly killed chicken! Each day though he'd put on his long black robes and go off to serve at the Mass. He served on the Sunday when we were there too.

On the Saturday he carted a sack into the kitchen that wriggled. He said it was a chicken for Sunday lunch and set about killing it by stabbing it in the neck with a pair of scissors. I decided to go into the back room as I felt sick. From there I heard the chicken utter a couple of terrific squarks as it was killed. Next thing, it was carried in all trussed up and ready to be cooked. They also killed their pet rabbit in my honour. They'd only kept it to eat scraps and they'd got another one. Guess who was given its liver to eat? I felt really ill but had to try to be polite. Have I succeeded in turning you all into vegetarians for a little while?

I think the weather here at Champagne must be much the same as you're having in England. We daily receive a fresh coating of snow though nothing like as much as was falling at Les Fourgs where they had to take the snow plough past the house and through the centre of the village each morning to open up the road.

Fortunately it's not really terribly cold here despite the snow. That's just as well because once again the heating has been turned off! I'm really feeling quite dirty and in need of a hot soak after my holiday, for there was no hot water or bathroom at Les Fourgs. To my horror I've found that the cold tap in the bathroom here is still jammed and running at full pelt, as it was before we left last week, so taking a bath will be impossible.

Champagne-sur-Loue, Wednesday, 27 February, 1963.

I'm now waiting in the kitchen for the postman to arrive. I've seen him in the village but think he must have popped into the café for an aperitif to warm himself up.

Yesterday was Shrove Tuesday. We didn't make pancakes but instead had "Beignets" which are their Continental equivalent. They come in a random variety of shapes and sizes and consist of walnut blossoms fried in batter. They're very crisp and crunchy and are rolled in icing sugar to sweeten them. They're eaten in France on Shrove Tuesday every year and veal is traditionally eaten for lunch or dinner on that day too. A priest visited the school and took the girls for religious study nearly all day so I had a lovely lot of spare time to listen to the radio. Today being Ash Wednesday we all went to Mass at 8:00a.m. and received both Ashes and Holy Communion. I can now be found hiding somewhere beneath a dirty smudge and a halo!

Did I mention that I've started to collect French cheese labels? I've now got over sixty from different varieties of cheese, mostly camenberts. It's amazing how many different ones there are in France. I've hundreds too from the small individual cheeses as I have those from the entire school! If I send some of the spare ones home to you, by the end of my stay you will have not only enough to paper a lampshade but an entire room as well! They're so attractive and they would brighten up the kitchen no end. Apart from that, think of the snob value! You could say to everyone "Yes darling, they are rather unique I know. You see my daughter sent them [from Champagne] where she was holidaying for eight months last year. The French adore their cheeses and she tells me she personally ate every single one represented there. Of course she was a tiny bit overweight when she returned home but she has always been partial to the occasional morsel of cheese." Your visitor would stare at the thousand or so labels on the wall and then rush off to tell everyone that the eighth wonder of the world was alive and well and living in Britain!

It's really peaceful as all the girls are on retreat and not allowed to talk. It's a little odd though, as I'm the only one around not under a temporary vow of silence but there's nobody to answer me if I speak! I've been playing my records and listening to the radio all morning and have settled down to a couple of hours with Jane Eyre. I'm feeling very bored and restless and will be glad when they all come out of retreat. I'm in the kind of mood where I'd like to throw a brick through a window or put salt into the pudding just to break the sound of the silence.

I do occasionally get these black moods but usually avoid writing until they've passed. Today's bad mood is partly caused by all the girls walking around wearing faces that remind me of last week's haddock being warmed up for the ninth time. In addition, over the past few days many of them have been ill with dreadful colds. This means that I'm acting as nursemaid to those ill enough to be in bed. It's bad enough having to run around fetching them hot water bottles and warm drinks but worst of all is having to sit and make polite conversation with them when I want to go and do something else and am not in the mood to rack my brains thinking of well constructed French phrases. When at last I do manage to escape for a few minutes on my own along comes one of the nuns to tell me that so-and-so has asked me to go and talk to her and it all starts over again. That at least is one good thing about today's silent retreat! If ever I have my portrait painted I'll be depicted with a halo and carrying a bedpan!

Now for something more amusing. Yesterday Françoise, Danielle and I were feeling particularly irritated by the girls. Françoise had put her hair up in a heap out of the way and was wearing her dark glasses which made her look like a medical student. When I commented on this she put on her long white cookery overall and looked exactly like one of the doctors from "Emergency Ward Ten". I told her that if she intended cutting up meat for lunch she'd better wear rubber gloves and a mask. She knew where to find such things and trotted off to get them to cheer us all up. while she was away Danielle and I turned the kitchen into an operating theatre. We gathered all the dangerous weapons available, ranging from a chopper to a carving knife, and then I lay on the long kitchen table as if for an operation. When she returned Françoise tied a handkerchief over her mouth, picked up the carving knife and proceeded to "dissect" me. It all looked terribly realistic and cheered us up no end. However we all felt pretty silly when the door opened and Sœur Martine came in accompanied by a visitor and two of the other nuns! They stood in shocked amazement, gazing at me with a carving knife apparently protruding from my entrails and "blood" all over my face where Danielle had smeared tomato sauce! At first they were horror-struck but then all started laughing like mad! However, it did ruin the operation which had to be abandoned so you'll be pleased to hear that I'm still in one piece.

Thursday, 28 February 1963.

I've been invited to spend the weekend with one of the girls here who wants me to go to a local village dance with her and her brother. Should be quite a lot of fun if I can do the French dances. Still they mainly seem to do "La Marche" here so I should be okay with that. Then I'm going to spend a few days with Danielle at the start of the Easter holidays until Julie arrives around April 1st.

It's Françoise's feast day on March 9th so would it please be possible to send something small but English for me to give her as a gift? Even a pair of tights or a hankie would be nice if there was an English label attached.

I think I may well be going down with the cold the rest of the school is suffering from. My head aches, my throat feels sore and generally I'm starting to feel as if a day in bed would really be very nice.

I'm just off to take the first year for English and have been busy devising a test for them on personal and demonstrative adjectives and pronouns. (Chuckles of sadistic glee!) I only hope my throat will last out. There goes the bell for the lesson now. Gladiators, into the ring!

Later.

I gave them their dose of poison and they took it quite well. Only trouble is I've now got a heap of papers to mark this afternoon which will take me a good two hours. However, having also taken them for their lunchtime walk I have no further commitments for a little while so have come up onto the Clos armed with my biology textbooks and my writing pad. I've ploughed my way through the snow to a clump of shrubs that shelter me from the wind. The sun here is so warm that the snow has melted and the grass is quite dry. It's almost blazing down and I'm so warm I've discarded my coat and pullover. It's quite perfect here. Quiet and peaceful. Not a sound except for a cock crowing somewhere in the valley and the wind rustling in the branches of the trees which are beginning to have buds appearing on them. It's really heavenly and I'm sorry you can't be here to share it with me, having all that ice and snow back in England. I must get on and do some biology before I fall asleep with the calm here. It does seem funny though, when I look at this sheet of paper, scattered with pine needles, lying out here on the mountainside, that in a couple of days from now it will be hundreds of miles away in a different country, in our living room, in your hands, with you actually reading the very words that now stare up at me from the page. It's also strange to think that in a month's time Julie will perhaps be sitting in this exact spot with me, appreciating its wonderful tranquillity, while we write another letter to you, together!


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